Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life (9781472151414)
WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016
Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.
William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.
Product details
- Paperback | 512 pages
- 139 x 217 x 37mm | 488g
- 31 May 2016
- Little, Brown Book Group
- Corsair
- London, United Kingdom
- English
- b&w photos
- 1472151410
- 9781472151414
- 4,798
Download Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life (9781472151414).pdf, available at greenaroundtheedges.net for free.
Comments
Post a Comment