Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life (9781472151414)



WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016

Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.

William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.

Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.


Product details

  • Paperback | 512 pages
  • 139 x 217 x 37mm | 488g
  • Corsair
  • London, United Kingdom
  • English
  • b&w photos
  • 1472151410
  • 9781472151414
  • 4,798


Download Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life (9781472151414).pdf, available at greenaroundtheedges.net for free.

DOWNLOAD

Comments

Popular Posts